Ramps, aka Wild Leeks

Ramps, aka wild leeks (Allium tricoccum)

Down south, we call 'em ramps, up north we call em' wild leeks. Scientifically speaking, they are called Allium tricoccum. Call 'em what you want, there's no denying they are one of the tastiest members of the onion family. However they are also over-harvested. For this reason, I do not often feature them in my writings. So many articles have been written about the infamous ramp, hence their popularity. They top many a foodie's list and speckle the menus of upscale restaurants. But perhaps this is all the more reason to share how we can sustainably harvest them or simply leave them be. Also, we cannot hide our treasured edible and medicinal plants. To learn about our wild plants, especially our human's history of use, is to foster relationship with these plants for years to come. And nurturing our human-plant relationships is more important than ever.

Ramps in a typical mixed hardwood forest, enjoying moist soil and the company of other native woodland plants. Fellow plants are: Virginia waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum), liver leaf (Hepatica), wild ginger (Asarumcanadense), Dutchman's breeches (Dicentra cucullaria), and violets (Viola).

Look for ramps in moist soil in mixed hardwood forests. They particularly enjoy sloping areas alongside lakes, ponds, streams, and rivers. When first leafing out they require a sunny open canopy, but by flowering time need dappled sunlight filtered through leafy treetops. It is unlikely you will find ramps growing in heavily disturbed areas, although I have found them on lightly traveled trails. Look for them amidst our other precious native plants. The photo above highlights a preferred habitat. Notice the Virginia waterleaf, Dutchman's breeches, and wild ginger. They also delight in the company of spring beauty, trout lily, wood nettle, and jewelweed.

Ramps with mottled leaves of trout lily (Erythronium americanum)

Ramps are most easily distinguished by a pair of floppy basal leaves, 1- 2 1/2 inches wide and 6 - 12 inches long. Leaves are parallel veined with a sometimes strong center vein and smooth margins. The petioles (leaf stems) may or may not be reddish.

Ramp leaves, highlighting strong midrib, parallel veins, and smooth margins

Underground ramps bear a slender white bulb a crown of white roots. Think of the white part as a scallion and you'll have the idea. This is the part of the ramp that we do not want to harvest. I'll come back to that in a little bit.

Ramps on washed and ready for use on cutting board

All parts of the ramp will have a garlicy/oniony aroma when crushed or broken. Here in the northeast, ramps will begin to appear in early to mid April and their green leaves will persist until late May. Come June, these leaves will quickly wither away and by July, plants will begin to send up flowering stalks. Each mature plant will bear just one smooth reddish-green stalk with a tight papery sheath terminally. This sheath will unfold its crinkly bracts revealing an umbel of small white to cream-colored flowers, each with 6 petal-like parts. Finally, in late summer, flowers give way to round shiny seeds that resemble tiny black pearls.

Ramps in seed stage

Ramps are in danger because we humans are overzealous when it comes to this wild edible. Folks will pay big money for ramps at farmer's markets and chefs are always eager to craft the next creative dish. However, we should only be wild harvesting ramps for our own use - that means yourself and your family. Secondly, we should only harvest ramps from those places that are abundant in ramps and from where others are not harvesting as well. Find your ramp spot and keep it secret! 

So just how do we sustainably harvest our moderate amount of ramps for personal use?
Ramps take seven years to reach reproductive maturity and are more likely to reproduce by bulbs than by seeds. Therefore it is imperative that we leave a portion of the bulb in place when we dig for ramps. Use a digging knife to dig the soil around a ramp, exposing its bulb, then be certain to cut well above the rounded bulb, leaving the bulb and roots in place in the earth. Distinguish ramps by their seed stalks and you can harvest the bulbs late in the season after the plant has dropped its seeds. That is, if you must dig for bulbs at all. The leaves are equally flavorful and may be sliced just above the soil. Take just one from each plant and you are doubly likely to ensure a plants survival.

Ramps with peppers and onions to be sautéed 

So, now what do we do with these ramps once we have carefully procured them? They are incredibly versatile and accent most any savory dish with a unique garlicy flavor and aroma. I leave leaves whole or dice and use in veggie sautes, scramble with eggs, use as a pizza topping, and simmer in soups. Don't use them in combination with too many other stronger tasting veggies or they may get lost in the mix. Use them in a recipe where they can shine. Recently I sautéed ramps with mushrooms and baked them in a quiche, topped with purple dead nettle flowers.

Quiche with ramps, mushrooms, and purple dead nettle flowers (Lamium purpureum)

Ramps also make an vibrantly green, tastebud-tingling pesto. And this pesto requires no garlic! Coarsely chop ramps leaves, then combine in a food processor with olive oil.

Ramps coarsely chopped

Add grated parmesan and/or nuts if you like, then puree until mixture is creamy. I am not big on exact measurements. But I suggest going light on the olive oil to start and gradually adding until you reach your desired consistency. Brighten and preserve your pesto with a squeeze of lemon and put on the finishing touches with a bit of salt.

Ramp pesto

Just a dab will do of this pesto. Blend a half teaspoon with a cup of ricotta cheese to top pasta or pizza. Smear sparingly on crusty bread or cheese sandwiches. Since just a little goes a long way, freeze the remainder of your pesto in small containers until needed. 

A couple more important notes on ramps.

Firstly, be careful not to confuse ramps with Lily of the Valley or False Hellebore. Both of these plants are toxic and when first sprouting, they strongly resemble the leaves of ramps. False hellebore, in particular, will often share the same habitat with ramps as well. Get to know these plants before harvesting ramps. Here are a couple of helpful links.

Lily of the valley - https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Convallaria+majalis
False hellebore - https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Veratrum+viride

Lastly and not least importantly, there are many other, less threatened plants we can harvest that have a garlicy/oniony flavor. My very favorite is garlic mustard, a non-native invasive that we would be doing good to eat. Check out my blog post about how to identify garlic mustard and puree into a pesto here:  https://thebotanicalhiker.blogspot.com/2015/04/presto-garlic-mustard-pesto.html Wild onions or onion grass is yet another. You'll be able to locate this one when mowing your lawn. Smell onion? It's right beneath your feet and looks just like grass but with hollow leaf blades and an oniony smell.

Ramps are delicious but precious native inhabitants of our remaining wild places. Please consider and handle them with reverence.