Gators, Swamps, and Friends

Wise Man hiking across an old train bridge in Saint Mark's National Wildlife Refuge

It's a jungle out here! Thank goodness for the magic of friends out here amidst the swamp diving, enormous gators, and the many, many miles of walking. We are 875 miles into this hike with just a little over 225 miles left to go. I can barely believe it. It has been sometime since I have posted due to the slim cell signal but we are after all in the Florida wilds!

Entrance to Saint Mark's NWR - love this quote from Edward Abbey

 After leaving the banks of the Suwannee we trekked along forest roads and wound around the deep sinks of the Aucilla River, we then ventured into the much anticipated Saint Mark's Wildlife Refuge. Our couple of miles into this wilderness were wet and rugged, as we crashed through downed palms and slid in ankle deep water and mud. We were relieved to reach an old railroad bed that lifted us above the salty waters of the swamp - being that we were so close to the Gulf, salt waters regularly mix with fresh water - however here we came face to face repeatedly with the abundant wildlife of the refuge.

Just one of  the many gators we saw in St. Mark's NWR

This was like running the alligator gauntlet. Along both sides of this path were deep culverts filled with black water and the evening was warm so apparently the gators thought it a fine time to come out and soak up the last of the day's rays. We camped next to one of these culverts and in the morning started our day with an alligator growling nearby. 

Looking to the Gulf

Wise Man walking the levee in Saint Marks NWR

And more gators!

We were pleased to reach the even higher ground and the open skies of the levy that separated the marsh from the Gulf and us from the gators...although even more lurked in the muddy plains below. It was intoxicating to walk trail bathed in bright sun again and to smell the salty air. There was no denying that now we had walked a very, very long way from where we had started. And then we got to take our first boat ride...that's right folks...these are miles that we don't have to walk! It's the only way to get across the St. Mark's River to pick up the trail on the other side in the town of St. Mark's.

Boat ride thanks to Shell Island Fish Camp

We enjoyed an evening in this quiet little fishing town, enjoying drinks waterside at a tiki hut. The next day however, brought the greatest gift of all...the company of my dear friend, Rachel Horn. Can you believe this girl still agreed to come join us for a few days on the trail despite tales we have been telling...and can you believe that she chose to jump on just in time for a traverse of Bradwell Bay Wilderness??

Bot and Swampalicious, aka Rachel Horn

Allow me to give a quick background on Bradwell Bay Wilderness. It lies within the heart of Appalachicola National Forest and is considered the most challenging swamp walk since Big Cypress National Preserve. It is four miles of shoe-sucking mud, limestone holes into which one easily missteps, fallen trees, bramble, and thigh deep water. It is literally the heart of the swamp and it is no joke. But we still managed to have a whole lotta fun in there!

Swampalicious deep in Bradwell Bay mud

Swampalicious wading the waters of Bradwell Bay 

Swampalicious walking downed tree - makes a handy bridge!

Bradwell Bay was particularly rugged given the fact that trail crews have not yet been able to tend to the blowdowns and overgrown brush since Hurricane Michael but we prevailed and emerged scratched up and covered in mud but still with dry clothing. Just in case we had packed warm dry clothes into ziplock bags inside our packs should we fall in or have to wade through water above our wastes. And let's talk about those backpacks...and the magic of friends....

Swampalicious, Chuck Norris, Wise Man, myself, and Tigger

For several days of our trek through Appalachicola National Forest we had the good fortune of running into these sweet souls of the Florida Trail Alliance, Chuck Norris and Tigger. We had not seen them since Billy Goat Days and had not crossed paths with them on the trail since we first met them all the way back in Moore Haven near the start of the trail. We came upon the both of them along Jack Crum Road - a 6 mile reroute through the forest. Not only did we get to enjoy the companionship of Tigger for our miles through the forest and along the Sopchoppy River but Chuck Norris slackpacked us all for as many miles as he could, which at times meant trucking along some pretty roughed up forest roads. What a treat! We don't know if we could have made it through some of those without you!

Hanging with Rachel and Stephanie in town of Appalachacola

After our treacherous walk through Bradwell Bay, our friend Stephanie was so gracious as to come pick these muddy hikers up and whisk us back to Rachel's house in the town of Appalachacola where we feasted, laughed till we cried, and slept in real beds, oh and of course showered! Thank you Rachel for being such a badass and an amazing true blue friend and for opening your home to us! Thank you Stephanie tolerating our stank in the car as you shuttled and for contributing to making us laugh until we cried. A treat to spend time with you off the yoga mat!

the many spiderwebs shimmering like a fairy kingdom in Appalachicola National Forest

Upon returning to the trail, we hiked on, just my sweetie and me through the remaining 30 miles of Appalachicola National Forest, which lemme tell you, was no small feat. It rained and poured, thundered and lightninged, as we traversed as much of the trail as we could, against the strong recommendations of the forest rangers to simply hike paralleling forest roads due to the destruction of Hurricane Michael. At times we found trail better than expected and freshly maintained and other times it was nothing but a tangle of fallen trees and brush. It was almost always wet, boggy, or straight up swampy...but the plants....oh the plants...so many insect eaters!

Yellow Butterwort (Pinguicula lutea)

Green Pitchers (Sarracenia flava)

Sweet Pitchers (Sarrancenia rubra)

But even here in the isolated swamps of Appalachicola, we made new friends. Meet Mark and Cheryl Brent, owners of Palm Glades Shorthairs (google them!). We happened to pass by their big white house just a mile south of Porter Tract Campsite and Cheryl waved us over offering us a glass of ice cold sweet tea. We soon met Mark and one of their beautiful pooches. We learned that they had met another hiker sometime back and made him sandwiches to go. They offered us pizza for dinner but sadly we had to get onto camp that night. They said they would love to meet more hikers, so be sure to stop by for a spell and chat. Thank you Mark and Cheryl for your company and generosity!

Enjoying some porch sittin' with Mark and Cheryl Brent

 And now here we find ourselves in the town of Blountstown, again amidst civilization, as if all that swamp were a mere dream, that is if we weren't still as dirty as a swamp. Oh and we have crossed into Central Time Zone! Now the miles of pavement unravel before us as we make our way towards Pine Log State Forest...road or not...these last 225 miles are to be savored wholly and completely.

Crossing the Appalachicola River and into Central Time Zone, baby! Here's to the miles ahead!