Love on the Suwannee

View of the Suwannee River from its white banks

It is quite the thing to celebrate Valentine's Day along the Suwannee River, a land filled with magnificently large Live Oak trees veiled in lacy Spanish Moss, Saw Palmettos that spread like wide green fans and air that smells like damp soil and fresh greens. The banks of the Suwannee are the whitest sand I have ever seen and soft like silk, they call it sugar sand here. For over thirty miles we walked along the river's shore, graced with such beauty it felt as if it were just for us.

Sitting at the base of a giant Live Oak tree

Wise Man wondering just how long this Live Oak has stood here

But that doesn't mean that these miles were without their trials. Deep sinkholes dot the wooded landscape just beyond the river's edge and regularly fill with water due to flood waters and the fact that the Suwannee regularly carves new paths through these lowlands. High waters had just receded just a week ago and so we were left with what one might call sinkhole puddles in their wake. Luckily we were able to maneuver around them, slicing up our legs on those saw-toothed palmettos as we crashed through their fronds and ripping through vines of Catbrier. It was either go around or wade right on through, which we could see might involve waters up to our necks. Creeks too, were still swollen, especially Mill Creek, which meandered down the trail's path like a swamp.

Flooded trail at a sinkhole along the Suwannee. Those blazes are normally eye level!

Flooded trail at Mill Creek along the Suwannee

However on our first day we were lucky enough to have a new friend to help show us the ropes through these watery woods. A new friend of the canine kind! Yes, it seems we may make a few of these sorts of friends along this leg of the trail.

Baxter the trail dog

We met Baxter along a dirt road just past Suwannee Springs and he couldn't have shown up at a better time as we were feeling the absence of Amos who had joined us just the day before. Baxter followed us all the way to Holton Creek River Camp, about nine miles by trail. As we would stand hemming and hawing over a route, Baxter would already be crashing through the forest bounding through the vegetation, suddenly appearing on the other side of the ford. We would follow suit, with a wee less agility. Baxter thankfully had an owner which we evidenced upon reading the tag on his collar. We gave him a call after Baxter's first couple miles with us and learned that he does this all the time, sometimes he even swims the Suwannee to go play with the campers at the music park. We were instructed just to let him come along if we didn't mind and he would pick him up at the campground when he got off of work. We were thrilled to have this sweet dog with us for the day. Perhaps you too will get to hike with Baxter someday!

Holton Creek River Camp with Baxter

Oh and speaking of Holton Creek River Camp- what a dream this place is! We enjoyed the security of this screened-in shelter for the night, complete with electricity and an overhead fan. Hot showers and a flushing toilet were just down the way...and all of this for free. Yep, that's right, not a cent. The caretaker, Scott who will be overseeing the place for the next couple of years, was nice as could be and kept the place sparkling. It was a pleasure getting to know you, Scott, thank you for the lovely accommodations and keep on rockin' that trailer life!

Cheesy bagels and Chickweed anyone? 

Pasta alfredo with Violet leaves and Chickweed

The Suwannee not only supplied us with beauty, canine companionship, and shelter but food too! The cool weather greens here were abundant and it was easy to gather a ziplock of fresh food for lunches and dinners. Chickweed lined portions of the trail like a soft blanket, their tiny flowers hidden amongst their fleshy leaves, and Violets shone their blue faces brightly, each with a rosette of heart shaped leaves at their base. Every hiker needs their greens and guess what... you don't have to wait until town to get 'em!

Withlacoochee River

Oh and speaking of matters related to the heart...a very special event occurred along these river banks, specifically where the Withlacoochee runs into the Suwannee in Madison County. My love, the man who shares not only my heart but my tent and all my sweat and stink...which lemme tell you is no small feat...my love who has not only summited mountains by my side but now trudged through swamps rife with water moccasins...my love who tells me to sing my heart out and makes my heart sing...proposed. And I said yes with full heart and soul and with still 4 more miles to go to Cooper's Bluff campsite.

Wise Man's proposal to me scrawled in the sand

Yes, the banks of the Suwannee will now forever be imprinted upon my heart and soul as the place where I held my love's hand in mine and felt not the beginning, but the continuance of so many steps  and adventures to come in our future. We are truly graced in this life. And I told him...if we are going to get married, we just may need to get a dog. And the next day we were off to the  church!

En route to the Midway Baptist Church

 Oh just kidding. But we really did follow our engagement with a hike to the church, the Midway Baptist Church that sits along the beginning of a very long road-walk. A 52 mile roadwalk. Thanks to Matt and Devin Thompson, we were able to take a sweet night's break after just 10 of those road miles, beneath the cover of their picnic pavilion. These two, their family, and members of their congregation could not have been more welcoming. Thank you so very much for sharing your space and your kindness! I would also like to thank the thoughtful folks who stopped along that long stretch of road bearing "liquid gold!" aka ice cold water and a handful of snacks. It is these small acts of generosity that can lift a person up when they need it most! We have been graced along this trail in so many, many ways.

A kiss to seal the engagement! Happy Valentine's Day y'all!

And now Valentine's Day may be passed but I see no reason to not continue spreading the love as we carry on down this trail. I know that which we have received thus far from others has been contagious and so perhaps we can give little of the same back to those we meet. Thank y'all for sharing in our story and here's to the winding Aucilla River to come!