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| Amos looking out from Dynamite Shelter |
The Susquehannock Trail System is the longest loop trail in the state of Pennsylvania, totaling in at 85 miles around. It is encompassed within the 265,000-acre Susquehannock State Forest and is comprised of 63 distinct trails, hence why it's called a
system. Thanks to two handy connecting trails, I hiked a southern loop of this trail back in 2022 utilizing one of those connectors, the West Branch Trail. You can read about that first journey here:
The Botanical Hiker: Hiking the Susquehannock Trail System - A Sweet Surrender.
My Pennsylvania Wilds Wander seemed an apt time to return to complete this little-hiked trail. And it is little traveled. I saw one other hiker, an older man, who was just completing his circuit hike and two day-hikers just a couple of miles from the state forest office. Despite this trail's remoteness, this forest felt amiable, familiar and inviting, similar to those woods I call home back east. Yet still this trail held wonders.
Bluebead Lily (Clintonia borealis) - a plant that I typically find in boreal forests, I stumbled across in my first few miles. A colony perched above a wet valley along the trail's grassy edge.
I had roughly thirty miles to complete on this journey, which I did over the course of three days. Utilizing the East Fork Trail, the other primary connecting trail that bisects the circuit, I was able to start and finish at the Northern Gateway near Coudersport, Pa. This connecting trail was actually one of the highlights of the hike. And this trail is even lesser traveled. When I signed the register, I saw that this little notebook that was only half filled dated back to 2019. Not too many feet had crossed this way, still it was well maintained and blazed.
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Amos admiring the old railroad grade that the East Fork Connector follows for a good
portion of its length |
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| The largest beaver lodges I have ever seen sit in this marshy valley |
The East Fork Trail carried us on an old railroad grade for a large portion of its length, giving us a view of extensive wet meadows tucked into a narrow valley. Here, I spied the largest beaver lodges I do believe I have ever seen. Goldenrod and asters grew atop them like rooftop gardens. We were both tempted to dip down off the grade for a closer look, but I knew the ground was surely less solid than it appeared from up here. The trees are just beginning to change here in the Susquehannock Forest, still the maples put on a show with golden leaves, especially bright against the deep green boughs of the plentiful eastern hemlock.
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| Wood Nettle aka Stinging Nettle (Laportea canadensis) |
After awhile however, our easy walk was over as we plunged into Shinglebolt Hollow and then spent what felt like a very long time climbing our way out. Despite my love for stinging nettle, for surely it is one of the most delicious and nutritious wild edibles the forest provides, I did not enjoy this nettle-lined path. The photo you see above is of a tiny shoot. Some of these nettles were waist high. Thankfully, now in autumn, many had died back. I cannot imagine this walk in high summer. And so, getting stung along the way as we walked a mucky drainage, kept us invigorated and ever climbing without too much of a break. Thankfully once this climb was over, we resumed a lovely walk on a grassy wide path, which is said to be an early portion of the historic Buffalo and Susquehanna railroad. No evidence of the railroad remained except this exceptional grade that wound around the side of the mountain and afforded views of the towering trees that rose from the hollow below.
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| Hemlock glen (Tsuga canadensis) along Lyman Run |
Along our loop, we passed in and out of deeply shaded hemlock forests as if through doorways, passing from light to dark and dark to light. As far as I could tell, these hemlocks looked rather healthy, perhaps not as affected by the woolly adelgid that affects many of our eastern hemlocks at home. Here creeks ran heartily, and all the forest was still. The Susquehannock Trail Club had established campsites within several of these glens, lovingly crafting stone seats or sometimes chairs fashioned from slim branches interwoven to create backs against which a weary hiker could lean.
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| Ford Hollow Shelter |
Speaking of the trail club and their work, my goodness, the affection this club has for their trail is prevalent along the trail. However, it is the shelters where it shows the most. I have never stayed in such luxurious shelters. Each one was complete with a couple of chairs, a handmade picnic table, and some with raised platforms where a hiker could sleep off the ground. But that's not all, some held battery-operated candles, calendars, and handcrafted tic-tac-toe boards. Several have been built just since I last hiked the trail, so these smelled still of fresh cut wood. All were spotless and rodent free. And each one was unique, especially the Dynamite Shelter. This shelter (also pictured at the top of this post) is an old Civilian Conservation Corps building that used to house, you guessed it, dynamite, back in the 1930's. The trail club renovated it, adding a small porch and these same loving touches. We did not stay in this one - it would be dark without any windows - but my goodness what a haven if you were in a bad storm!
The towering golden maple and rough-barked cherry trees, the inviting nature of this trail, its plentiful shelters and its well-cared-for path surely made this hike. I also discovered that here the slugs are not only very long bodied but the color of pinto beans!
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| Towering golden maples amidst cherry and basswood |
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| Thoughtfully placed logs to assist in a muddy spot |
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| Check this guy out!! |
And so, we have just a few miles to do down south that we had to bypass back 2022 due to a massive pile-up of blowdowns. We're going to walk those remaining miles in the next couple of days and then our 85-mile circuit (plus two connector trails) will be complete! Afterwards, we'll set our sights on the Allegheny Front Trail that encircles Black Moshannon State Park.
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| Cabin at Potter County Family Campground |
This post would not be complete without sharing how much I have enjoyed driving these country roads past tiny towns tucked into big jaw-dropping beautiful hollows, rolling for miles through nothing but public land forested landscape, and crossing paths with some really nice folks. I have been so grateful for Potter County Family Campground, which sits just minutes (driving) from the Northern Gateway to the Susquehannock Trail. They have lovely little - very affordable - cabins complete with electric and space heaters in a very quiet campground (during the week). And there just so happens to be cell phone reception. They charged a humble $5 pet fee, took a reservation over the phone without a credit card, and provided this cold, wet hiker with a complimentary cup of hot chocolate. Hot showers and bathrooms are nearby. Then this morning at the Susquehannock State Forest District Office I had the joy of chatting with Kathy Stephenson and Ranger Hannah. They took their time answering all of my questions and more about logistics with parking and camping and the like. We also chatted hen of the woods recipes and mullein tea and the importance of adventure, of exploring the unknown, navigating the ol' skool way with paper maps, and the wonder that surrounds us daily. This chance encounter made my day. Thanks ladies, a treat to connect with kindred spirits.
The continual rain showers have been challenging, but it looks like we're approaching some beautiful days come mid-week and tomorrow is merely cloudy which makes me raise my hands! A little wandering through the Susquehannock State Forest and then onto the Allegheny Front Trail!
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| Amos and I scheming our upcoming miles - he'd like to know where his next hamburger stop will be. |
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