Amos - Trail Dog Extraordinaire

 

Amos appreciating Seven Mountains Vista

This week has been the week of Amos Moses, the toughest trail dog I’ve ever known. Well, perhaps I’m biased because he’s my Amos, but our experience which started out rocky both figuratively and literally, became only one of awe by the end of this week.

Amos joined me again in Detweiler Run Natural Area and together we hiked rhododendron-lined trail beside the trickling creek, marveled at painted trillium and goldthread in flower (well, at least I did) and navigated moisture-covered rocks. The temps were high and the bugs were prevalent and Amos enjoyed many a drink and splash in the creek. Amos likes nothing better than a good creek or water hole. At home, our neighbors have a pond and every chance he gets he’s trespassing for a dip, returning home with mud up to his pits.

Amos in Detweiler Run Natural Area

Painted trillium (Trillium undulatum)

Goldthread aka canker root (Coptis trifolia)

We started out with smiles, but by the time we were just a handful of miles in, my high spirits dissolved. A storm was coming in, night was soon to fall, and Amos just wanted to stand there and look about. Amos loves to hike, but he is also what I believe to be an avid forest bather. When I lead a forest bathing session, I always stress to folks that it’s not about the destination, rather it’s more important to take in your surroundings with all your senses and if you feel compelled to stop and wonder, do so, if you feel compelled to change directions and wander off trail, do so. That’s Amos’ groove. It is not infrequent for Amos just to stop dead in his tracks on a beloved trail and just stand there for a solid ten minutes. Sometimes he decides its time to turn around or take a side trail. However, as you, my fellow hikers know, this is not really an option on a time-sensitive long-distance hike. So as the skies darkened and the drizzle began to fall, we plunked down right where we were on rocks and roots and still miles short of our destination.

The next day was even worse, probably the toughest day I have had on the trail yet. I was carrying more weight in my pack than I probably ever have thanks to Amos’ wet food, dry food, treats, sleeping bag, water, jacket, paw wax, insect repellent, and tie-out. Yes, he has his own pack, but he can only carry so much.  If there is a an award for the heaviest pack on this trail, I think I am a contender! And he was doing a lot of forest bathing. At first I utilized the time to pick the ticks off of him and me and swat black flies. I did a lot of cajoling, then tugging, then just sitting it out. We made it a whopping 7.5 miles that day.

tunnel with creek underneath route 322 through which the trail passes

On the third day, we crossed underneath Route 322 through a tunnel with a stream running through it and I ducked my head, well, just because I felt I probably should given the ceiling was so low. And when we got to the other side, and I tried to go the wrong way, Amos led us the right way. He would do this repeatedly throughout the week, saving me extra steps and sweat. And then, on Broad Mountain, his time a’wastin’ started wearing off on me. As we hiked along, I took notice of the green new sprigs of needles on the healthy eastern hemlocks beside me and when Amos paused, I took to nibbiling. What a zing of lemony vitamin C goodness that brightened my spirits. 

Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) spring growth - delicious to nibble from healthy trees and packed full of vitamin C

With every vista side trail we passed on the trail, Amos, too, insisted that we stop and take in the view. He had his priorities straight. And then somewhere in the midst of the mountain laurel tunnels, it dawned on me. When he paused, he was nervous, taking in his surroundings before moving on farther - he wanted me to lead. So, I gently took his leash, said "let's go!" with enthusiasm, and just kept on walking...and he followed. He has a gentle leader I often use to stifle his pulling, but we soon abandoned this as we no longer had a need for it. I led, he followed, even down steep rocky mountainsides and days later on rock piles on the mountain. When ascending steep climbs, sometimes I led and when I stopped to catch my breath, he stopped too and then took the lead, tugging me the rest of the way up the mountain. 

Amos navigating a rocky scramble

He's bounded over blowdowns in the trail that neither of us were so sure he could clear and then pranced on proudly ahead. With the help of Rosemaries' Rescue Ranch, we rescued Amos two years ago from a kill shelter in West Virginia and when we took him out on his first walks, it was clear he'd never explored the woods (perhaps he'd spent his days in a cage), not knowing how to navigate fallen trees and such. But not only is he gaining confidence out here, so am I. It is a very different thing to hike with a dog, to be responsible for someone other than myself when making the miles and a creature whose well-being relies solely on me. I was excited to bring him out on the trail, but to be honest, filled with anxiety as well. He's tempered my choices in forging on farther when it's nearing the end of the day or in bad weather and as result we both have benefited. I have also learned that hiking with a dog is no different than learning to hike with any other hiking partner. The two of you have to find your flow, that pace that works best for both you and in the end, your experience on the trail is not diminished, nor the same, but heightened. 

Much of my energy this week was devoted to this process with Amos, but let me share with you some of some of the other highlights. Earlier in the week, just before Amos joined me, I marveled at the way in which the forest transformed as I approached Little Flat fire tower in Rothrock State Forest and continued until I descended towards Bear Meadows Road. Here, the forest was dry and filled with species adapted to fire - blueberries, pitch pine, chestnut oak, wild cherry, and wintergreen. The trail was lined with compacted yellowing moss and strewn with dry needles. With the orange blazes and abundant hot sun, I sometimes wondered if I'd stepped onto the Florida Trail. Quite memorable along this portion of trail, too, was the Tom Thwaites memorial. I stopped, left a stone and gave my thanks to his dedication. The inscription on the sign post, a quote from Ed Lawrence MSTA President, was so poignant: "As you crest the next Ridge, listen in the wind for the sound of his voice tangled with the breath of the earth, and hike on."

Trail through Rothrock State Forest

Signpost beside Tom Thwaites Memorial

Amos and I particularly appreciated a campsite near to the Hunter's Path in Poe Valley State Park. This fine campsite was complete with tall eastern hemlocks, their roots lining a trickling clear creek - and speaking of the Florida Trail - I will never take for granted the clear, sparkling, fresh-tasting water of our northern climes after hiking that trail where most water sources were sulfur-tasting and cloudy, filled with sediment, or the color of sweet tea. I am thankful for each spring and mountain stream I cross. We camped here so that I could readily pick-up a package that Scott had dropped at Reed's Gap State Park for me. There, the staff passed the package along to a ranger, who then delivered it to Poe Valley. Knowing that hikers don't always meet the constraints of office hours, the staff had so kindly placed the package outside for me in the event I arrived after hours. It was a long haul down and then back up the side of the mountain to retrieve it, but how wonderful to not have carried that food all week long. A HUGE thank you to Beverly and Josh at Reeds Gap and Ranger Dan Hartley. I will say it again, it takes a village to hike a long distance trail.

Campsite at near the Hunter's Path

We thoroughly enjoyed walking the Penn Central railroad grade and passing through the ominous Poe Paddy tunnel. Amos considered turning back halfway through, but we persevered and wow, what an experience to walk through a mountain rather than over it. The walking was blissful here and it seemed that somewhere along our long hike, spring had truly sprung, the path was so very green with many a tree leafing out overhead. Perhaps it was the oncoming rain adding to the greenness. 

Poe Paddy tunnel on the Penn Central rail trail

Penn Central rail trail

Which mind you, the rain this past week has been an added challenge as well. It rained four out of seven nights this week and on Sunday, Amos and I got drenched. Good lord. What started out as a light rain, turned into a downpour and we struggled so as we hiked "against the grain" over Naked Mountain and Nittany Mountain and whatever other unnamed knobs we clambered over, as we had the day before as well. We ended up on this evening throwing down the tent where we stood and tumbling inside, drying off with the assistance of a square of microfiber and spooning, swaddled in our sleeping bags like two pups in a pile. It rained until two o'clock in the morning that night. The Reichley Bros. logging railroad grade - a troublesome path of medium-sized odd shaped rocks, reminiscent of walking atop a flattened rock wall - is not much fun in rain either, and although fascinating, I don't find it much fun in any weather for long.

Walking the Riechley Bros. logging railroad grade, which the trail revisits periodically

But most every other day and night, the Trail Gods smiled upon us and we just missed the storms - either finding shelter beneath the awning of a building at the right time and place or setting up camp just before the black clouds rolled in. Our camp atop Thick Mountain midweek was particularly pleasant as we nested on its flat top in the cover of drooping eastern hemlock boughs. It may have rained for the evening, but we remained dry and warm and in the morning relished a forest laced with ribbons of fog. And I remind myself, that without this rain, my beloved plants would not flourish nor those creeks I so deeply appreciate flow.

Hittin' the midpoint on the Mid State Trail with Amos

And...I passed the Midpoint near a lean-to in Bald Eagle State Forest. That was a mighty awesome feeling and a little bittersweet. How quickly those miles have passed! It is a reminder to savor the rest all the more. Not long thereafter, I crossed paths with Teresa - the very first backpacker I have encountered of the entire hike. She was out for a section from Hairy John Picnic Area to R.B.Winter State Park, her first journey after a tragic fall, back surgery, and illness, although by her stance and spirits, one sure wouldn't know it! It was a pleasure to meet you Teresa and share stories.

Wise Man, Bot, and House the Cat at the Long Path northern terminus

And now, for the next exciting leg of this journey across Pennsylvania - my fiance, Scott (trail name Wise Man) and my father, Doug (trail name House the Cat) will be joining Amos and I for a good stretch. I am overjoyed to have this sweet company for a good while - my days will be rich! And we will certainly be a crew moving on down the trail, so keep your eyes peeled - likely we'll be hard to miss!