Tuscarora Trail: Crossing the Mason Dixon!

Pennsylvania state line!

It feels mighty fine to have crossed the Pennsylvania state line. The marker may have been humble, but soon as we did, both Amos and I got some more pep in our step. Just like that, Amos got his trail legs! I swear it’s as if he knows he’s on home turf and at this point, if he just keeps walkin’ he’s bound to reach home.

Amos walkin' the C&O 

But first, we had the pleasure of walking down the C&O canal path. This was a hiker’s dream, especially when loaded to the seams with food for the upcoming week, and water. Yeah, I know there’s water spigots along the C&O, but we wouldn’t be here for long and this hiker no longer trusts any upcoming water sources. So as we walked down this path admiring the flowering wingstem and white snakeroot, which I deem the official plant of this trail – I spooned cole slaw from a Ziploc bag from the Potomac River Grill, later I would enjoy leftover pasta alfredo with roasted broccoli spears at the picturesque Hardy County Park. I highly recommend this convenient restaurant located in Hancock, Maryland along the trail. I also appreciated the Hancock Motel. If I weren’t hiking, I might have felt different – there was leftover soap in the shower and a used coffee filter in the courtesy coffee maker and well, I don’t know what was in the freezer – but the sheets were clean and very welcoming after coming off a road-walk and braving the bridge crossing over the Potomac River with a pooch in the pouring rain.

Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia)

Once in Pennsylvania, I was greeted by country roads and a corridor of paw paw trees. However, I was disappointed to find no fruits. I do believe the trees were too shaded beneath the forest canopy to produce fruit, either that or a local knows the bounty of this stretch of trail and already picked 'em clean. Climbing up the mountain, I was delighted to find patches of mountain mint – by far the most refreshing aroma and flavor imaginable on a hot day, I crushed and nibbled as I walked– mingled with wands of black cohosh gone to seed.

Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum)

Black Cohosh gone to seed (Cimicifuga racemosa)

Each and every day the views in Pennsylvania have been astounding. But goodness, I had to pay for those views on the Tuscarora Mountain obstacle course. The guidebook said “the tread varies from rocky to good.” Rocky is an understatement, and that is coming from someone who is a Pennsylvania native and has thru-hiked the Pennsylvania Mid State Trail, which I do believe must be the rockiest long trail there is. Teetering with a full pack, Amos and I navigated this rocky spine on a sun-drenched day with little tree cover and I just hoped I wouldn’t be abandoning my pack, slinging him over my shoulders, and dashing down the nearest side trail for rescue. But alas, he navigated it better than myself. I suppose the Mid State was good training for this swamp walkin’ coonhound. When we weren’t playing see-saw with boulders, we rolled up and down slender trail laced with barbwire-like blackberry vines. The northern end of this ridge walk was, comparatively, a walk in the park, with wider leafy trail. We practically skipped! Nonetheless, by the time I descended my legs looked like stray cats had used me for a scratching post.

Amos appreciates every view

Believe me, the photos don't do it justice!

Along this route I was saddened to find here and there heaps of invasive mile-a-minute vine (the North’s kudzu) strangling vegetation and trees playing host to spotted lantern flies. However, there were also wide spreads of milkweed and starry campion speckling the trail, both of which were a delight to see. 

Starry Campion (Silene stellata)

Sweet fern (Comptonia peregrina) - one of my favorite teas

Also, the return of black birch and black cherry in full attendance, now dominant trees rather than tupelo and sassafras, has warmed my heart (although I love those trees too). Fragrant sweet fern periodically now waves from the edge of the trail. These botanical companions, sure reminders that I am on a Pennsylvania ridge, walking Pennsylvania woods.

Moutain House Restaurant

Another fine establishment along this trail is the Mountain House Restaurant. My goodness, to be walking trail, emerge onto a powerline with a spectacle of a view and then walk through a hole in the shrubbery to an establishment with cold soda and fried food . . . I felt like I’d just walked through the closet to Narnia. They have a lovely back porch that makes a hiker feel right at home, with electrical outlets too, and even Amos thought this was a fine place (Amos doesn’t do civilization well) when I ordered up a burger just for him. This is his third one on the trail, mind you. I figure the burgers are powering the trail legs.

Lovin' these wide grassy paths!

And now the temps are cool, so much that I’ve actually started wearing the thermal top I carried all these miles and although there are bursts of boulders and rocky reels, there have also been great long stretches of wide earthen forest road. Some have been grassy, others gravelly and leaf strewn. But I’ll take it. Perhaps it is my age (although I’m not that old yet), but I every time I walk one of these stretches, I think, I could walk this the whole way. But really, I think I could. Anyone know a trail out there that is just easy forest road walking? But it must have shelters like the Tuscarora. These shelters are the lap of luxury – each one uniquely designed, clean, and complete with a picnic table. In fact, I sit at one such lean-to as I write this post!

Burd Run Shelter

Flintstone seats at Big Mountain Shelter

One more week to go. I am going to savor it. Thank you to all the trail maintainers and trail supporting folks that make the Tuscarora Trail the trail that it is!

White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum)