Ambling the Adirondacks

 

Amos on the Northville Placid Trail

We set off for the Adirondacks one week ago today. I knew little of this region. Scott, Amos and I had explored it for a few days on the Northville Placid Trail some years back. If fact, I do believe that was Amos' first backpacking venture. Scott and I had also walked up to the edge of the Adirondacks when we completed our thru hike on the Long Path. But aside from these glimpses, I'd never taken the time to really get to know this region. Armed with a packet of National Geographic maps and plenty of supplies, Amos and I drove northward. 

Several hours later we had reached Route 28, which would carry us through numerous quintessential Adirondack towns, among them Thendara, Old Forge, Eagle Bay, and Inlet. As darkness fell, we passed lake after lake, the silhouettes of evergreens towered. We parked it just outside of Inlet at Eighth Lake Campground. As soon as I stepped from the car, I noticed the air smelled different here - like fragrant balsam and damp soil. We had no sooner settled into the tent when I heard the loons calling. I hadn't heard loons since I was on the Finger Lakes Trail, before that the Appalachian Trail. It's amazing how nature has the ability to connect us instantly with far away moments in our lives. Then a screech owl. Later that night, a pack of coyotes yipping and crying and howling. We had certainly entered another realm.

Queer Lake in the early morning

I had studied my maps thoroughly before leaving and had highlighted some trails that I thought would be fun to explore. We started in the Pigeon Lakes Wilderness, with a lollipop loop from Cascade Lake trailhead up to Queer Lake. An easy 4.5 miles. The trail began wide, once a dirt road long ago, and then we turned onto single-track. We rolled along, up and down small hills, sometimes navigating a minor blowdown, other times squishing and squelching through mud. I am learning that mud comes with the territory here. Boardwalks and puncheons and cut-log paths had been laid in an effort to reduce the mud factor, but alas they were rotting in the mud too, so they presented their own obstacle. Still, it was nothing we couldn't handle, and the enormous trees, moss-covered logs, and micro-forests that perched on top of boulders made it all worth it. My pictures that I have to share are limited given my service, but when we reached the lean-to, my goodness! The lean-to sat facing enormous Queer Lake. I was delighted to find the water perfectly clear and the lake with a sandy bottom. I set up our tent just beside it and later that night, after a song from the loons and later, a barred owl, the woods fell completely and utterly silent. Not a breeze, not a cricket, not a crack of a twig. I would come to learn that this, too, seems to be typical in these Adirondack woods.

In the morning, I spotted a beaver out for a swim, and later the loons cackled hilariously at me as I struggled to pack up all of our gear. On our way back, we did a loop around Chain Ponds. Along the way I was struck by all the hobblebush in the understory. It's heart-shaped leaves are turning deep burgundy, and some shrubs are sporting red (ripening to black) berries. Amos also spotted a black bear. We both remained perfectly silent, as he meandered through the forest and then scampered up an embankment. Before we knew it, we were back on the path we had started at, completing 11 miles for this jaunt.

Hobblebush in fruit

That afternoon, we explored the charming town of Inlet. I very much appreciated the open-air coffee house. An iced coffee after a trek, now this I could get used to (and did, two days in a row). Arrowhead Park was a fabulous place to gather info at Town Hall, make use of the Wi-Fi, and clean up a bit in the bathroom. This seems to be the town park, and wow, what a park it is, set right on the shore of Fourth Lake.

View of Fourth Lake from Arrowhead Park

 Later that evening, we headed for Moose River Plains, which hosts over 100 free roadside campsites. No amenities aside from some with firepits, privies, and picnic tables, but it sure is nice to have an easy, no-cost, legal camping spot. Finding a spot did require rolling very slowly down a bumpy gravel road for what felt like an eternity, but about 35 minutes later, we had chosen our site, set on a wooded knoll. That night it poured rain and the site was pretty much dirt. So as the raindrops hit hard, they splattered, right up underneath the rainfly and into the tent, casting black grit and grime all over the outside of the tent, and inside too. So be it, we were at least dry. And, hey when car camping, circumstances such as these, never seem too bad. 

Road sign in Moose River Plains - these remote roads stretch for miles, one leads from Inlet 27 miles to Indian Lake (although due to windfall, this route was closed about halfway through)

The next day we drove farther into Moose River Plains, where the gravel roads eventually turned to sand. I learned from a ranger that a very old moose named Harold, was said to frequent the ponds here. I kept a keen eye out but never did spot him. I'm still holding out hope on this trip! That afternoon, Amos and I took it easy, with a wander through Cathedral Pines - a pocket of old growth pines - and later explored Ferd's Bog. The bog was a wonder. Here we followed a slippery dirt path, down, down, down, and then walked a heavy-duty plastic boardwalk out into the heart of the bog. Leatherleaf lined our path, sphagnum moss was blood red, and carnivorous pitchers plants sat filled to the brim with rainwater waiting for a snack. Amos desperately wanted to keep going beyond the boardwalk, but when he stepped out onto the moss and started sinking, he decided that maybe wasn't such a good idea. 

Moss Lake and the island

Camp at Moss Lake

Late in the afternoon, we discovered beautiful Moss Lake. Amos was all about this place, running up the shoreline, where we spied a wooded island at its heart. The shoreline was a botanical wonderland. I marveled at northern wild raisin, mountain ash, and winterberry - all in fruit. The bottle-brush purple flowers of narrow-leaved gentian, a wholly new plant to me, clustered amidst these shrubs. I could have spent the day here, and perhaps we will, but evening was quick to come. There are eight campsites that surround Moss Lake on a 2.5-mile loop trail. So, back at the car, I packed a backpack, and we headed in for the night, finding a lovely spot in a cove of evergreens.

Winterberry - a deciduous holly

The next day began our first big trek. After much sorting and organizing, and a long drive into the West Canada Lakes Wilderness, Amos and I hit the 22-mile French Louie loop. I was excited for this route given the abundance of lean-tos and lakes. Also, we would be walking a portion of both the Northville Placid Trail and the North Country Trail. After another long drive down a gravel road that I hoped my sedan could traverse, we embarked on our three-night, four-day hike at nearly 5:00 in the evening. 

Amos loves a good puncheon

Trail markers for the 4,200-mile North Country Trail and the 140-mile Northville Placid Trail. The North Country Trail also utilizes the Finger Lakes Trail through New York state, therefore thanks to my time on the FLT, I have already walked about 500 miles of the NCT. Here's to slowly chipping away!

I will sum up this loop as a true walk in the wilderness. These woods were dense, so dense that if the sun were shining while we walked, I was barely aware of it. Trees - predominantly beech, spruce, balsam fir, red maple, and paper birch - densely clustered. Between trees, moss-covered logs and rocks and roots. A thick understory of hobblebush. The precious leaves of native wildflowers we rarely see back at home were abundant, among them blue-bead lily, bunchberry, jack-in-the pulpit, and abundant patches of common wood sorrel (which is not all that common in northeast Pa.) An unparalleled quiet. Zero cell signal for most of the loop. Loons, a fisher cat, belted king fishers and northern flickers, three hikers and two golden retrievers. 

View of Cedar Lake with morning mist

Nearly every night we slept with a view of an enormous glittering blue bowl of water framed with green hills splotched with red. It was easy to plot out our mileage with nine lean-tos to choose from. My favorite was South Lake lean-to, given the amazing campsite right beside the water. 

Our camp at South Lake

The trail was typically a thread weaving us through the forest. Sometimes that thread was literally cut through a carpet of moss, cleanly edged on both sides, giving the effect of a garden stroll. Other times, we slopped about, sinking ankle-deep in muck - Amos is happy to take me right through the heart of it, even if we could have likely side-stepped it with some finesse. We walked mossy boardwalks and impressive bridges and even a land bridge through the edge of South Lake. Finishing up, we walked what once a road, evidenced by rusting car frame that sat plunked in the woods. With rain coming in, our last night we picked a random spot in the woods to put us closer to the car for our last day. 

22 miles under our belts (and paws) at the trailhead for the French Louie Loop. This trailhead is located off Old Military Road, near Pillsbury Mountain. 

It felt pretty good to reach that now familiar signage this morning. Today we've been taking it easy, getting some chores done and sitting out the rain from yet another roadside campsite. Who knows what tomorrow will bring, we'll see where our feet and paws take us.